Objects

protection points, or over rock prominences. A large number of anchor placements, especially if they form a zig-zag rather than a straight line, can make the rope drag so bad that the climber can hardly move forward. Let’s assume a situation where the rope runs through several carabiners which are not all aligned. By using the equations of Euler-Eytelwein to describe the dry friction between the rope and the protection points, the rope drag can be calculated. It can be expressed by an effective mass of the rope that the climber has to pull, which is always larger than the rope mass itself. This effective mass depends exponentially on the sum of the angles of the direction changes the climber has made. “Early errors” by not using longer runners to reduce the angles at the first protection points are less severe than “later errors”, which is plausible when considering that the higher friction points are pre-loaded with more weight from the rope itself." - (en.wikipedia.org 09.03.2020)